Portland, Me.: Locavore in Menu and Décor

By Suzanne MacNeille

The streets were empty on a Monday night, but Hugo’s, a sleek, lounge-like restaurant at the edge of the Old Port district, was filled — not only with diners intent on their delicate assemblages of, say, braised daikons with summer kimchi, but also with the dozen or so servers and food preparers who take center stage in the bright open kitchen that faces the bar.